... received a pretty good photo book over the holidays...
'Jaws Maui'
(1997 - authors Charlie and Leslie Lyon, photography by Patrick McFeeley)
... documents early development of the monster Hawaiian surf break, 'Pe'ahi', as well as the wilderness of the north shore of the island of Maui... a bit dated but still excellent, none-the-less...
... setting in land-locked SWPA and leafin' through this thing in the midst of the "dark days of winter" (if you want to call it that) got us thinkin' about a west coast trip a few years back...
... Huntington Beach, California - 'Surf City, USA... beach and surf break viewing north from atop the 'Huntington Beach Pier'...
... and south...
... 'buddy Matt', 'Laide' and 'Foxy' hangin' out on the pier boardwalk... where's 'Foxy'? (look close)...
... a shot of the pier about 5am... note the early morning 'ebb tide'...
... prior to headin' into the famous 'Rubys' restaurant for breakfast...
... mainly just hung out on the beach and in town for a few days while drink'n some beers, eat'n and gettin' to check out some pretty good surfers...
... the 'Pacific Ocean'... surfer for scale (Ha)...
... some guy rippin' on an SUP...
... he was pretty good on that thing...
... 'body boarder' - the pier was a good place to get some decent photography...
... some very good 'short boarders' as well...
... not long breaks but guys were gettin' some pretty decent rides this day...
... good sequence of events - Matt doin' some 'bodysurfing'...
... before renting a board and wetsuit...
... not bad - said he was havin' a lot of trouble with the long and "blunt-nosed" rental board - hard to keep the nose down - said that he learned on the short boards which he had back at his (Vegas) home... he sent me a photo years back surfing at 'Ocean City', MD in the midst of a school(?) of Dolphins - was a pretty cool photo - can't find my print and he lost his...
... back to the locals...
... very early morning seemed like the best time to be out on the water - this is probably a little after 5am...
... appeared that a lot of the best guys were out then as well... zero crowds a big bonus...
... lots of beach volleyball as well... settin' up early morning above...
... the 'AVP' pros had a lot happening this day as well as a tournament...
... could easily live there...
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