Sunday, November 10, 2013

Irishtown (Ice Climbing Part 2)

... has become pretty popular the past half-dozen years or so, but will post a few comments regardless...

... visited the area many times in the 70's - four wheeling (was especially fun with "chicks" back there late at night) and "partying" (the "main mine" at the lower ice wall was the scene of many "keg parties" back in the day), exploring the 'underground mines' (there's several more if you follow the "access trail" to the north), hunting (used to be many turkey and grouse - still is) - so, as soon as the "ice bug bit", knew at least one good place to go...

... pretty crappy map - this is the best we could adjust the resolution after downloading from 'Google' - 'Bing' had a better map, but was photographed with too much tree-cover which hid all the ground detail... short hike in (through some nice growth of 'Mountain Laurel' and 'Rhododendron') just north of 'Twin Oaks Drive', south of the town of 'Dunbar, PA' - access (currently) no issue, is 'PA Gamelands'...

... definitely vertical - this is the prominent route - 'Mouth of Madness' (probably 4+) - only 'top-roped' for years - Tim Anderson finally climbed it on gear probably 2002 - that's him and around that time... the mine opening is just to the left of the photo - the warmer air exiting the mine keeps the ground above the mine constantly dripping - hence the place is (usually) always reliable...

... a second good route over to the right - 'The Prow' - probably 3+ on toprope - first time ascent on gear totally under-estimated the bulge of rock above and was no way a "mixed-climber" - slightly longer and harder than expected - got hung up and could move neither up nor down with forearms and calves flaming and looking at about a twenty foot fall on to an ice screw with razor sharp tools in hand and on foot and with a ledge below - finally managed the top - stomach so "knotted" that had to set there for damn-near fifteen minutes nearly "dry-heaving" the whole time... just checked Tim's 'Irishtown Ice Guide' (http://climbpa.blogspot.com/p/irishtown-ice.html) - he's callin' the rock moves 'M-4' (around 5.8) - and that's considering 'expert' ability (which we'd say solid on M-6/5.10)... 

... here's Tom Koppler climbing in excellent conditions...

..."ditto" - and a bit higher up...

... "we like snow!"...

... anyway - there's an 'Upper' Quarry' wall with some fun, albeit short (but stiff) stuff (hey! - that's almost harmonic!!) - good for learning and practice... Tim and Laura Hahn have also added several very cool bolted mixed routes along the north 'Lower Wall' the past few seasons - all in the aforementioned 'Ice Guide'...

... might as well mention...

...the old mine(s) are pretty cool as well...

... if ya' take the right shaft just inside the mine opening at the 'Lower Wall', it will lead to some 'breakdown' which you can scramble up to emerge at this opening in the woods, as this young guy (Colby Fiesta) is demonstrating...

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