The Layton Falls discussion last post got me thinkin', and I decided to search the 'archives vault' for some photos. Was one of the first local areas we found with some consistently fat vertical ice (when in) and better yet, an easy top-out, which a lot of time was the crux of the climbs back then using the tools of the day, possessing minimal experience and thinking of blowing backwards off the top of the route, potentially upside-down, onto an ice screw.
The area is what it is - Layton Falls. The only climb there, nowdays. Probably Grade 3+, depending upon conditions. Maybe 50ft tall. Used to be three vertical streaks along the wall to the right ('The Three Sisters') that were top-roped. Easily Grade 4+ or harder nowdays. They were very narrow and difficult to distribute your weight across - most of the moves were a "barn door". They timbered the woods above the falls years ago, cutting a few skid roads which re-directed the water seepage to the wall - the 'Sisters' never really formed after that. The main falls are formed by a small tributary stream to the 'Yough River' that cascades down the hillside.The area is not much interest to anyone nowdays. Is a good place to learn/practice leading skills, though. The falls get very "fat" in a good year. Zero "scare factor".
Always preferred the "frontier" other than established areas when possible. Never was crazy about "guide books". Own a million of 'em, but will always be more fun doin' your own thing other than following others. Good for identifying what hasn't been done, though. Subsequently, was always out "exploring". Before construction of the 'Yough River Bike Trail' (YRT) on the opposite side of the river, ya' used to be able to drive the old railroad bed from 'Dickerson Run' to 'Layton'. There are 2-3 pretty good Grade 2+ seeps, flows and gullies, each several hundred feet in length, each with a few short vertical drops over rock ledges, along the hillside flanking the river. Used to hit those one-by-one and finish the day at Layton Falls. Would be an all day ski-excursion now, no vehicles permitted, and you would have to shuttle two vehicles. Not worth the effort, in my opinion. If I get around to it (and can remember their exact locations), I'll put them on an map and post 'em.
Here's a few photos...
... the Falls...
... climbing, around 1987...
... that's former SWPA climber Glen Thomas above (1990). Note the old 'Forrest' positive-curve ice tools and flexible lace-on crampons. Those things were real "calf-burners" on vertical ice. The new and improved rigid 'Lowe Footfangs' which came out around that time (see the previous photo) were a vast improvement, as were reverse-curve picks...
... here's SWPA climber Tim Anderson toppin' out, around 2001. Tools nowdays change yearly and most are eventually considered obsolete within a matter of a few seasons...
... climbers just get older and slower...
... here's a photo (probably late February, 1986) of the falls just after the upper section collapsed, just missing the climbers standing directly below. Bad conditions that day and warm. Had done a single lap, each pick placement breaching an 18 inch water spout (note the hollow column on the left). "What the hell - probably last day of the year - one more lap and then we're out of here".... Crack!! - here comes the whole upper section - big as the Subaru we were drivin' - headin' straight for our heads - don't even remember each of us diving out of the way... almost as "spectacular" as Tim's episode on the 'Sick-le' a few years back (and we got that one on video!)... hey, one of the 'Sisters' visible to the right...
... here's a final shot of one of the aforementioned low angled flows opposite the river. This is actually a pretty cool climb. The photo doesn't do the angle or length justice. This is the just off the second pitch - probably about 100ft to the vertical finish above, which is about 20ft in height. Probably about a 200ft flow altogether. Excellent beginner-intermediate stuff and gear/ropework practice. Note the high-tech clothing, plastic 'Raichle' boots and earlier mentioned 'Footfangs'. This one is strange, however. Found and climbed it one year, returned the next year, same temperature/weather conditions - nothing there. Came back a few years later - there it is again (?)
(picture this in full conditions - about a foot of snow all about and a raging blizzard - first time conditions and excellent!!)....
Final note: Layton Falls is on private property. The owner is a pretty good guy and party-er. He actually built a pretty nice set of stairs down to the falls along with a wooden 'gazebo' in the stream gully. Guess it's all still there - haven't been there in years. If you visit take along a few beers and offer him one if you see him and you'll do OK....
.... almost forgot... of interest, the town of Layton was used as a location in the movie 'Silence of the Lambs'. If you park along the railroad tracks in town, don't remember exactly, but think it is the third yellow house to the west along Layton Road - is where the "psycho" lived and kept chicks in a pit he dug in the basement - is a standard feature on home construction in 'Fayette County'. They also filmed some exteriors along Layton Road - driving through the single lane roadway tunnel and across the bridge over the 'Yough River'.
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