Saturday, September 21, 2013

'Lovers Leap' (Rock Climbing Part 3)

... or the 'Narrows' - is what everyone called the place "back in the day" - now'days labeled 'Locust Grove' in all the on-line climbing "sites" (is the name of the local small community)...

... pretty cool place just west of 'Cumberland, MD'...

... tall cliff with solid, steep face climbing with several good flakes and cracks with good protection - not sure of what rock type (some sort of 'quartzite'? - don't know)...

... was never any published information on the place - so never knew any established route names or difficulty ratings (all the better) - we figured that all the difficult stuff we encountered was probably in the hard 5.10 range - although - a route 'Goodman' put up long ago (now bolted) is rated 5.11b on-line - probably right - remember "seconding" that thing - very thin and "crimpy" - all the "pro" (thin wires and small RP's) was definitely only "psychological" - "X-rated" for sure - so the bolts are probably a good thing - was a good job by Rob.... (no - not the route pictured above)...

... this is the "First Buttress" - good face climbing - those are some guys from Uniontown we'd occasionally encounter - Rob sold 'em an old static rope one day - went back the next weekend and found it layin' in the brush at the bottom of the cliff - never saw them again to give it back - descent from the "belay ledge" was via that single small sapling (always kind of "hairy") - sure there's some "rap bolts" now'days...

... this is a pretty cool and easy left facing corner headin' up the 'Buttress' - "sews up"...

... here's Rob workin' his way up the face of the 'Buttress' - bomber pro following the obvious "flakes"... (the guy in the background this day once played pro-football for the 'Al Davis' led  'Oakland Raiders' back in the 70's - he had a few good stories to tell - especially reg'd Ken Stabler and neurotic blonds and John Matuszak bustin' up bars)... hey - just noticed! - Rob's wearin' old fart 'EB's"...

... a bit higher up...

... this is the "classic" route -  'Bee Sting' - one of the best moderate "crack climbs" to be found anywhere - Rob belaying... still trying to figure out who snapped this photo - think one of Rob's "chicks" was with us that day... there's also a formation known as the 'Upper Slab' in the woods above the main wall that has a few hard crack and face climbs - don't have any photos (that I can find) - but there's a few on-line if ya' look around...

... word of caution: was always access issues - you have to cross an active railroad to reach the cliff, and the ground between the tracks and rock is railroad right-of-way property - never could understand what the big deal was - hardly ever any rail traffic - you might see one train all day, if at all - have read that the railroad has officially designated the area off limits to all and has been enforcing the issue - don't know - haven't been there in years...

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